Big monthly expenses:

• Rent: $900
• Car payment + insurance: $300
• Cash (miscellaneous spending food, gas, cloths, books…): $450
• Utilities+ (heat, electricity, phone, internet…): $250

Take home pay: $2,800.

That leaves $900/month ($2,800 – $1,900). Decide how to allocate that – toward your IRA, saving to buy a house or take a vacation, eating out (above what was allocated above for cash), pay off debt (if you have it…), build up an emergency fund, save to buy a new MacBook Pro with Retina display…

If I decided to allocate $300 to my IRA (or increase my 401k) I would just set that up automatically each month. Then say I decided to put $400 toward other savings I would have that go to my savings account each month. And I decided I could use the $200 to pamper myself I just leave that in my checking account and what is in checking is what I have to spend.

I just don’t spend more than that. Just like when I was in college I had little spending money. I could spend that. I couldn’t spend any more, I didn’t have it. If I were to go over (I never did), but if I were to have (say my credit card bill exceeded my checking account balance), I would have had to reduce my cash the next month. I reality I would have something like $2,000 extra in the checking account so no bills would be a problem (and just view $2,000 as 0).

In 6 months see where things stand. Is it really working? Did you mess up and forget some expenses… If you need to adjust, do so. Re-examine every 6 months (or every year, if you are doing pretty well).

Take a portion of each raise (50% maybe) and devote it to personal finance goals (paying off debt, retirement savings, building up emergency fund, saving for big purcahse, investing, give more to charity…); don’t just use it to increase spending. Use no more than half (or whatever level you set) of the raise to increase your current spending.

Related: Personal Finance Basics: Avoid Debt – Investing in Stocks That Have Raised Dividends Consistently

One of the most important things you can do is be sure you have disability coverage. In the USA about 50% of the jobs provide coverage. If your job does not you should get insurance yourself. Many companies may not pay for disability insurance but may allow you to pay for it (this often can be the best option as the company can gain a better price than individuals but you have to check out the details). Also social security includes some disability insurance coverage but it is very limited. Relying on social security alone is not wise. For one thing it does not protect you from being unable to do your current job but will only pay benefits if you are unfit to do any job.

There are numerous factors to consider for disability insurance. Normally a long term disability insurance policy will pay 50-60% of your salary (be sure to check and see, and check if there is any cap). The terms of the policy will also determine how long you will be paid, being paid until at least 65 is what I would suggest – but some only pay for a limited number of years.

Often policies will offer pro-rated benefits if you earning power is reduced by a disability but you are still able to earn something. So you may have a policy that pay 60% of your original salary but if you make 50% of your previous salary then the payout is reduce to say 20%. So if you originally made $80,000 and now, due to a disability (not just losing your job), you could no longer do your job but could do one that paid less – say $40,000. You would then get your new salary of $40,000 + $16,000 in disability payments or $56,000.

Another detail you should check is whether the payments you will receive are indexed to inflation. In addition, make sure the policy is guaranteed renewable. You also want to buy from a reputable insurance company (check AM Best, Moody’s, Weiss rating agencies). It doesn’t help to have a guaranteed renewable policy if the insurance company goes out of business.

Another thing to consider is buying additional disability coverage. For example, if your company provides a 60% coverage policy it is often possible to purchase addition coverage (to provide additional benefits of 10% or 20% or more of your current salary).

A rough guide is disability insurance will cost 1-2% of the income replaced. For example, a policy replacing $50,000 per year of annual salary would cost about $1,000 per year. Of course, the older or sicker you are the higher the cost. Premiums are based on risk factors, so if you have health risks that will cost more. And, as age is a significant disability factor, the older you are the higher the cost will be.

Remember if you have disability insurance through work, and lose you job you need to get your own disability insurance. This is yet another reason to have an adequate emergency fund.

Related: Personal Finance Basics: Long-term Care Insurance – Personal Finance Basics: Health Insurance – How to Protect Your Financial Health – Life Happens: disability insurance

Retiring Boomers Find 401(k) Plans Fall Short

Knowing exactly what is needed for retirement is difficult. But knowing what is a responsible amount is not. It is certainly no less than 8%, and is likely the 12-15% figure Vanguard recommends. If you start at 10% from the time you join the full time workforce (in your 20′s) then you have some flexibility you can see how thing look when you are 30, maybe 12% is sensible, maybe 15%, maybe 10%. If you fail to save for a decade however, you are likely to need to be at 15%, or higher.

Those of us in the USA live very richly (as do many of others in other rich countries and some others in countries that are not rich). We seem to think it is our right to live extremely richly and not have to save for retirement and then don’t want to accept the consequences of our decisions over decades of our lives to live for the day and not worry about the future. I don’t think that is a wise thing to do. The USA is not likely to generate enough excess economic benefit to just give it to those that didn’t save for retirement.

You may not want to save 12% of your income for retirement, but if you don’t you are taking a very risky personal financial strategy. If you decide not to, when you are in your 20′s and decide to in your 30′s good (you might well have to do more than 12% but still anything over 8% I think is a good start). But if you fail to save for 2 decades and you are in your 40s, you will have to save much more than 20% of your income, to be secure – most likely.

There are not that many obvious personal financial requirements for any sensible strategy. One is to have health insurance if you live in one of the few rich countries without coverage (the USA, for one). Another is to save an emergency fund. Another is to not buy things when you don’t have money. And saving in the neighborhood of 10% of your earnings (likely a bit more, and certainly more if you failed to do so as you started work) for retirement is another. Another is disability insurance.

Related: 401(k) Options, Seek Low Expenses – How to protect your financial health – books and articles on saving for retirement – Saving for Retirement

Many aspects of personal finance can get a bit confusing or require some study to understand. But really much of it isn’t very complicated. Debt is often toxic to personal financial success. The simple step you can take to avoid the problems many face is to just not buy things until you save up for them. If you want some new shoes or new Droid Incredible or to go see a football game (American or World Cup style) that is fine. Just save up the money and then spend it.

If you limit your borrowing you will get ahead financially. I think borrowing for a home is fine (I suggest saving up a 20% down-payment – or at least 10%, and many banks are again requiring this sensible step). And don’t overextend yourself – borrow what you can comfortably afford – even if you run into financial difficulty. It might be likely you earn more 5 years from now, but it is certainly possible you will earn less. Remember that.

Borrowing for school is fine but be careful. Huge education debts are a large burden. Don’t ignore this factor when selecting a school. And don’t fall prey to the for-profit education scams that have become very prevalent. I would be very very skeptical of any for profit educational institution and would much prefer long term public or private institutions with long term success (colleges, universities and community colleges). Technical training can be very good but you have to be very careful to not be taken advantage of.

Borrowing for a car is ok, but I would avoid it if possible. And other than that I would avoid debt, if at all possible. If you want a big expensive wedding, fine, save up the money. If you want a vacation to East Africa, great, save up the money. If you want the latest, new tech gadget, great save up the money first.

And saving up for your emergency fund (if it isn’t fully funded already) and for retirement should be right after food, shelter, health and disability insurance and any debt you already have to be paying back. After you have committed money to your emergency fund and retirement then choose what to do with your remaining discretionary income. It is critical to have built up an emergency fund so if you have any emergency you can tap that without going into debt and digging yourself a personal financial hole you have to dig out of.

Personal financial success is not some get rich quick scheme or magic. Success is Achieved by doing some really simple things well. It is not complicated but that isn’t the same thing as easy. Showing restraint is not what we are urged to do by the marketers. So while not buying what you can’t afford is not exactly an amazing insight, hundreds of millions of people (in the USA and Europe I know, and probably everywhere that consumer debt is easy to get) fail financially just because they refuse to follow this advice.

Related: Avoid credit card debt – How to Protect Your Financial Health – Curious Cat personal finance basics – Can I Afford That?

But that leaves out one thing. Even if you do have the cash you should be building up a cash reserve before buying luxuries. The typical advice is to build up 6 months of expenses in cash (rent or mortgage, food bills, utilities, health care, etc.). Now actually building up to that level can take awhile and forgoing all non-mandatory expenses until you have that saved is not usually reasonable. But as part of your personal finances building up an cash reserve is important (even if it is boring). And I believe you really should aim at a higher level – say building to 1 year.

A significant portion of downward spirals in personal finances are started when people have emergency expenses and have to borrow that money (since they don’t have cash reserves). And even worse when they start racking up huge fees for late payments, increased interest rates on outstanding debt, health care expenses if they fail to keep health care insurance…

If you are over say 26 and don’t have a cash reserve yet saving for it should be part of your monthly budget. How quickly you build that up is a personal decision but I would say a 2% of the target amount (so if you are aiming for a cash reserve of $20,000 then $400/month). If you have next to nothing saved now start aiming at 6 months. As you get 3 months saved up start aiming at 9 months. As you get 6 months saved up start aiming at 1 year. And you have to also be saving for other needs – you shouldn’t raid your emergency fund savings for other things (a new car, a vacation…). This takes real discipline but it is much easier than the challenges our ancestors had to face of billions of people face financially today. So yes it is not easy, but really those that feel sorry for themselves need to realize they shouldn’t expect that they are so special the world owns them financial riches with little effort.

Doing something is better than nothing so do what you can (even if it is less than 2% of you target). But realize that is one of the weaknesses in your personal finances and try to fix that as soon as possible.

Very important personal financial allocations for you to put first include: current needs (food, car payment, rent/mortgage, utilities…), insurance, creating a cash reserve, retirement savings, saving for future purchases. Then there are luxuries and treats, such as: eating out, vacations, cable TV… Many people put current needs, luxuries and treats fist and then say they don’t have the ability to do what is responsible (check how rich you are – before making such claims yourself).

Related: How to Protect Your Financial Health – Save Some of Each Raise – Buying Stuff to Feel Powerful – Consumer Debt Down Over $100 Billion So Far in 2009 – posts on basic personal finance matters

The real free credit report site, annualcreditreport.com, is provided by government regulation (so those that don’t believe in regulation would rather use one of the sites advertising “free” credit reports). But I suggest using the government provided reports and I would suggest spreading the requests out during the year (you get 3 a year, 1 from each of the nationwide consumer credit reporting companies).

The site also has a large frequently asked question section including:

How do I request a “fraud alert” be placed on my file?
You have the right to ask that nationwide consumer credit reporting companies place “fraud alerts” in your file to let potential creditors and others know that you may be a victim of identity theft. A fraud alert can make it more difficult for someone to get credit in your name because it tells creditors to follow certain procedures to protect you. It also may delay your ability to obtain credit. You may place a fraud alert in your file by calling just one of the three nationwide consumer credit reporting companies. As soon as that agency processes your fraud alert, it will notify the other two, which then also must place fraud alerts in your file.

Where can I find out more about credit reports, my rights as a consumer, the Fair Credit Reporting Act and the FACT Act?
Please visit www.ftc.gov/credit

Related: Credit Card Tips – Personal Finance Basics: Long-term Care Insurance – Financial Planning Made Easy

• Make a will.
• Pay off your credit cards.
• Get term life insurance if you have a family to support.
• Fund your 401(k) to the maximum.
• Fund your IRA to the maximum.
• Buy a house if you want to live in a house and you can afford it.
• Put six months’ expenses in a money market fund. [this was wise, given the currently very low money market rates I would use "high yield" bank savings account now, FDIC insured - John]
• Take whatever money is left over and invest 70% in a stock index fund and 30% in a bond fund through any discount broker, and never touch it until retirement.
• If any of this confuses you or you have something special going on (retirement, college planning, tax issues) hire a fee-based financial planner, not one who charges a percentage of your portfolio.

I would amend a bit with: secure health, disability and homeowners insurance, see Personal Finance Tips. And funding 401(k)s and IRAs is wise. If you have to make some cutbacks, only partially funding them is a trade-off I would accept.

In a recent blog post he also spelled out an obvious exception:

Related: Scott Adams on Investing – The “Dilbert” guide to personal finance – Personal Finance Basics: Long-term Care Insurance – ‘Dilbert’ deserves the economics Nobel

You actually are better off with wild swings in stock prices, when you dollar cost average, than if they just went up .8% every single month (if both ended with stocks at the same price 20 years later). Really the wilder the better (the limit is essentially the limit at which the economy was harmed by the wild swings and people decided they didn’t want to take risk and make investments.

Here are two examples, if you invest $1,000 in a mutual fund and the price goes up every year (for this example the prices I used over 20 years: 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 33, 36,39) you would end up with $40,800 and you would have invested $20,000. The mutual fund went from $10 a share to $39 over that period (which is a 7% return compounded annually for the share price). If you have the same final value but instead of the price going up every year the price was volatile (for example: 10, 11, 7, 12, 16, 18, 20, 13, 10, 16, 20, 15, 24,29, 36, 27, 24, 34, 39) you end up with more most often (in this example: $45,900).

You could actually end up with less if the price shot up well above the final price very early on and then stayed there and then dropped in the last few years. As you get close to retirement (10 years to start paying close attention) you need to adopt a strategy that is very focused on reducing risk of investment declines for your entire portfolio.

The reason you end up with more money is that when the price is lower you buy more shares. Dollar cost averaging does not guaranty a good return. If the investment does poorly over the entire period you will still suffer. But if the investment does well over the long term the added volatility will add to your return. By buying a consistent amount each year (or month…) you will buy more share when prices are low, you will buy fewer shares when prices are high and the effect will be to add to your total return.

Now if you could time the market and sell all your shares when prices peaked and buy again when prices were low you could have fantastic returns. The problem is essentially no-one has been able to do so over the long term. Trying to time the market fails over and over for huge numbers of investors. Dollar cost averaging is simple and boring but effective as long as you chose a good long term investment vehicle.

Investing to your IRA every year is one great way to take advantage of dollar cost averaging. Adding to your 401(k) retirement plan at work is another (and normally this will automatically dollar cost average for you).

Related: Does a Declining Stock Market Worry You? – Save Some of Each Raise – Starting Retirement Account Allocations for Someone Under 40 – Save an Emergency Fund

Can You Afford Long-Term-Care Insurance?

“About 70 percent of individuals over age 65 will require at least some type of long-term care services during their lifetime. Over 40 percent will need care in a nursing home for some period of time.” – National Clearinghouse for Long-Term Care Information

Advice on buying long term care insurance from AARP, the Department of Health and Human Services and Consumer Reports.

Do you need long-term-care insurance?

As with all insurance you need to understand what coverage you are purchasing (including the risk of the insuring failing) and what is not covered. Given the long potential delay between when you buy and when you collect long term care insurance the failure to understand limitations can be dangerous. If you buy coverage with a specified period (say 5 years) when you are healthy and then get a chronic condition and wish to have lifetime coverage, you may well not be able to purchase such coverage (due to your health risk).

Those of you reading this in countries that provide universal health care might feel thankful they don’t have to worry about this. However, in many countries long term care insurance may still be wise. And if it isn’t today, it may well become so (the economic costs are huge so the macro economic trade-offs countries make may well change over time) so it is something that should be explored at least annually to determine what is the best option given your personal financial condition.

Related: How to Protect Your Financial Health – Personal Finance Basics: Health Insurance – Boomers Face Retirement

What does federal deposit insurance cover?
FDIC insurance covers funds in deposit accounts, including checking and savings accounts, money market deposit accounts and certificates of deposit (CDs). FDIC insurance does not, however, cover other financial products and services that insured banks may offer, such as stocks, bonds, mutual fund shares, life insurance policies, annuities or municipal securities.

Joint accounts are covered for $250,000 per co-owner. The limit is per person, per institution, so all your accounts at one institution are added together. If you have $200,000 in CDs and $100,000 in savings you would have $50,000 that is not covered.

FDIC is an excellent example of good government in action. The Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC) was created in 1933 and serves to stabilize banking by eliminating the need to get ahead of any panic about whether the bank you have funds in is in trouble (which then leads to people creating a run on the bank…)

From an FDIC September 25 2008 news release: the current FDIC balance is $45 billion (that is after a decrease of $7.6 billion in the second quarter). The FDIC is 100% paid for by fees on banks. The FDIC can raise the fees charged banks if the insurance fund needs to get increased funds.

In the event the FDIC needs emergency funds they can borrow them from the treasury department to meet obligations and then the FDIC would pay back those loans using fees charged banks (as well as from sales of assets of failed banks that the FDIC took control). They have done this one time in the past, in 1990. They paid back the treasury with interest within 2 years.

The new law (passed Oct 3rd) increased the limits temporarily to $250,000 but seems to indicate taxpayers will fund any losses between $100,000 and $250,000 (and premiums would not be charged to banks on these assets (I believe). I hope they change this to have the FDIC insurance pay for itself, as it has always done previously.

The FDIC aims to keep the insurance fund at between 1.15% and 1.25% of total deposits. Currently it is at 1.01%. So premiums the banks pay will be increasing. Premiums charged banks in 2007 averaged 5.4 cents for every $100 in insured deposits. Troubled banks pay higher premiums as the FDIC moved to risk weighted premiums somewhat recently (last 5-20 years, I think). In 2008 the fund will have gross income of about $5 billion ($2.5 billion in fees from banks and $2.5 billion in interest).

Related: Investor Protection Needed – Where to Keep Your Emergency Funds? – Sneaky Fees – Some Movement on Regulating Credit Cards Companies